what kind of pred to use for sewing leather with a sewing machine
Leather is very likely the starting time material used by humans for sewing. How difficult can it exist to sew leather? At a first glance – very hard, or at least that's what I thought earlier really doing information technology. But subsequently I finished my first serious project I realized that sewing leather is not more complicated than sewing denim for example. On the contrary, considering leather doesn't fray, doesn't need washing, pressing, doesn't shrink, etc.
The only trouble was that my regular sewing tools were non exactly leather friendly and I lost a lot of fourth dimension trying to utilise regular needles, threads, and techniques. I thought I knew information technology all; how incorrect I was. But once I started using the tools specific for leather everything vicious into place beautifully and the result of my efforts was worth the learning process.
I like sewing with leather. Leather garments are always in style but they are really expensive to buy. Leather is, in fact, one of the few materials that are toll-effective to stitch, while the material is not inexpensive ( and no quality material is cheap ), if you brand a brim or a bag yourself information technology volition be much cheaper than in the store, particularly that merely upscale stores would have leather.
I fabricated quite a few projects with leather (see images below), made some mistakes during the process and discovered so much by trial and error that now I tin can share with yous some tips on how to run up leather. I have of course much to learn and every projection is a new opportunity to learn from failure.
Before making my leather pocketbook (in the image higher up) I took this Craftsy grade "Making leather bags" with Don Morin. I knew the basics of sewing with leather because I fabricated some like shooting fish in a barrel sewing projects with leather before simply I never made leather bags. And then I watched the class and learned professional leatherwork techniques and discovered how to select quality leather and add some extra smoothen with contrasting leather, mitered gusset corners, rouleaux handles and an expertly installed zipper. The form is an excellent foundation to movement on to your own leather projects.
Below are some of my leather projects, either things made out of leather or leather accents for embellishment on garments:
First of all, I tin can tell you that yous don't need an industrial sewing machine for your leather sewing projects as long as you select thin soft skins like lambskin leather, for example (called as well nappa).
It's necessary to accept special notions and tools for sewing leather on a domestic sewing automobile, they are inexpensive and easy to find. In the listing below I want to show you lot what I used successfully for my projects.
The other suggestion is that you need to exist mindful of your seams when sewing with leather – if your pattern requires sewing eight layers at once it's probably as well much for anyone without an industrial leather motorcar and then programme accordingly how many layers you volition accept to be sewing through. Yes, sometimes you will need to sew by mitt, only this is by no means extraordinary for anyone who sews, no matter the material.
Call back: leather seldom allows y'all to make mistakes, a seam on leather is probably final and can not be redone. Get-go, the needle will get out marks in leather which will not recover and second the leather may become weakened along the seam and a second seam along the same line is non really appropriate.
Leather sewing tools
What kind of needle is used to sew leather?
Leather sewing needles are designed to sew leather: they accept a special cutting wedge-signal that goes easily in the leather and somehow make holes smaller than regular needles (as it seems to me). They come in different sizes for unlike thicknesses of leather.
Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I volition receive a commission if yous social club a production through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and utilise myself.
I used Schmetz leather needles size ninety/14 for stitching two layers of lambskin leather and size 100/sixteen when I needed to stitch 3 or 4 layers. I think they are the all-time and I haven't found whatever that compare to them. If you run up a lot of soap you might consider buying needles in bulk, they are quite expensive otherwise.
I read that Universal and Microtex needles can be used too but they didn't work for me. Look what happened when I tried to use a Universal needle. I had skipped stitches all the time.
Special sewing machine presser feet
For some small stitching (like when I was sewing leather to textile) I could use simply a regular straight-stitch foot but for bigger projects I needed specialized sewing machine feet.
I of them is a Teflon straight-stitch foot – information technology is non-stick and, in most cases, goes smoothly and effortlessly over the sticky surfaces.
For sewing piping on my leather purse I couldn't use the direct-stitch pes and had to change it for a zipper pes but it had to exist Teflon also so it can go smoothly on leather.
Too, a walking foot tin can be a real lifesaver when sewing leather. I employ a Janome 6600 sewing auto and information technology comes with AcuFeed organization which is practically a congenital-in walking foot. This is a really wonderful feature and it makes a huge difference. It helps the leather glide through the machine so that the underneath layer (confronting the feed dogs) doesn't bunch up under the foot and stitches stay even and not too close together.
Sometimes, if I don't utilize the walking foot, my machine doesn't even movement and but proceed stitching in one identify making a huge hole in the leather and knotting up the bobbin thread. So if you want to avoid frustration while sewing leather – buy a walking foot. They are different for different brands of sewing machines.
Most modernistic sewing machines are low shank, so the feet to a higher place will likely fit. Brand sure yous check if your machine is low shank or non, or buy from an outlet that allows returns if you are non sure. If your machine accepts only proprietary feet, you lot are probably limited to what the manufacturer sells or one marked specifically as "compatible" for your brand and model.
Below is a walking pes in action. My main machine (Janome MC6600) has a congenital in walking foot which the manufacturer calls "AccuFeed". Just walking anxiety are available for almost brands separately, if they were not included with the machine to begin with. Or you could purchase a anxiety set, nigh will as well include a walking foot.
What thread do you use for leather?
I use stiff polyester threads TEX 40. Regular cotton wool threads (ordinarily twoscore weight, TEX 25) are not good enough for me, I guess they are not very strong and intermission likewise easily. I also tried pure silk threads (thick one) and can tell yous that they are very good for sewing thin leather just they are expensive. Beneath is a short video of my TEX 40 threads I used for leather:
If you want to know more near threads, weight, tex and conversions betwixt them, delight read my article "Sewing thread sizes and how to tell the thread size".
I came to the conclusion that it's important for the thread to lucifer the thickness of the needle eye – if they don't friction match (if the thread is as well thin for the needle) the hole made by needle will be besides big for the thread and and then yous will see this.
Notions for basting leather pieces
You lot can't use regular pins, neither tin can you baste pieces by mitt – any needle volition leave a permanent hole in the leather. No trouble! There are special notions that can be used instead of pins.
I use Wonder clips ( they are actually wonderful!). It's and then easy to attach and remove them and they are sturdy, concord multiple layers of leather together tightly without shifting and don't distort the pieces in any way. One side of the clip is flat and then as you sew the leather information technology glides smoothly towards the needle.
A notation about Wonder clips: I used both Clover and no-proper noun; not all no-name clips were good, some of them I used well on cotton only when it came to silk or leather, they scratched the fabric because they were not smooth enough. In the end I decided I will go with brand name and throw abroad the ones that were non finished properly. I bought the pack once and it volition be expert for many years. 1 more argument towards ownership good tools, you save coin long term.
If yous decide to go no-name (they are much cheaper), make sure you check them while y'all can still return them.
Another fantastic notion for sewing leather is a double-stick basting tape. I utilise information technology a lot for straight seams but non so much for curved seams. The record keeps leather from shifting and stretching very well and you don't fifty-fifty need to accept it out subsequently you cease the seams, you can go out it in without whatever trouble (the tape is very thin) and the seams volition still remain flexible. Another proficient thing about the record is that you lot can reposition it if you put it in the wrong place.
Just don't run up through the tape because it volition gum upward your needle.
This tape is really good also for sewing zippers on leather, for making hems on leather garments, and for opening seam allowances. The tape has a backing newspaper which you have to peel off after y'all accept positioned the tape.
Tools for cutting leather
I utilize very sharp shears considering I don't sew together leather very often. Just if you plan to work with leather a lot then better use a rotary cutter. The cut is usually very clear and I like to use it simply sometimes my rotary cutter is non cooperative and destroys my leather. Eeek! Watch the video below if you want to know how Not to use the rotary cutter.
The rotary cutter is best for straight lines. If yous demand to cut curves, tight corners and complex shapes so you have to employ shears. It'southward meliorate to use shears with a blunt tip so yous don't scratch the leather.
For a better look at the rotary cutter please refer to my commodity "Rotary cutter tips and tricks". There are some tips about ownership a rotary cutter in that location, not all cutters are equal!
Another very good tool for cutting pocket-sized leather pieces is Brother cut car Scan&Cutting ii. A subsequently addition to the family unit was the Cricut Maker machine, I accept the impression that Cricut cuts even amend, but I did not use them enough to really compare. They are suitable mostly for small and intricate parts used for embellishments.
These machines are updated frequently by the manufacturer then to check out the current availability on Amazon employ the below links:
Yous can't use pins when cutting blueprint pieces from leather. Use pattern weights or scotch tape instead to hold the pattern in place. I have a big drove of stone figurines so I use generally them. To transfer pattern markings I utilise just a regular pen and use all my patterns already with seam allowances.
Also, it's impossible to sew leather without using glue. Y'all volition need it for keeping seam allowances open, for finishing darts and hems and many other things. What is the all-time adhesive for leather? I apply this i: "The ultimate! The only non-toxic, water-based super gum".
Sewing machine settings for sewing leather
Select a slightly longer direct stitch length (around 3 -3.5 mm, ane/eight″ if your car has imperial units). Too short a stitch length is no good because you will make more holes in the leather weakening the slice and a run up length besides long is no skillful either because it will get out big distances between holes; information technology is not beautiful and the longer the sew, the weaker the seam. three – 3.v is simply right.
I also decreased my thread tension to ane (instead of normal 3-4) and adjusted the foot pressure for sewing leather. Unremarkably, I sew a lot with delicate silk fabric and because of this, I continue my foot pressure dial at 1 for sewing extra fine cloth. So I needed to put information technology to 3 which is good for thicker fabrics.
Practice stitching on scrap pieces. Afterward preparing my sewing machine for stitching leather I used flake leather pieces to test my settings and tools. Don't be tempted to skip this pace – it'due south actually important to know how your sewing auto is going to handle stitching leather. Make a seam sampler using different needles, threads and sewing machine anxiety.
Buying and preparing leather for a projection
How to summate how much leather you will demand for the project?
Unlike fabric, which is sold past the yard or meter (length), skins are sold by the foursquare foot. Then it'due south always kind of a problem for me to decide how many skins I will need for a project because I need to convert yardage requirements to a number of skins. You lot accept to purchase whole skins, they can't be cut, obviously. Lambskins unremarkably can have 3 to 6 sq.ft.
Moreover skins are not uniformly good, they might accept imperfections, thinner parts, cuts, holes and arranging a pattern on a skin is really an art compared to arranging a pattern on fabric. More than about this subsequently.
Want more complications? Ok, here it comes. The color of skins is not compatible, even two skins in the same batch may exist slightly dissimilar. Two different batches, bought a couple of months apart? I will guarantee they are completely different, even if the manufacturer lists the same color. Then you demand to buy always enough to make certain your needs are covered 100%.
If you purchase leather in a brick and mortar shop than you can just accept your pattern with you and lay out pattern pieces on skins of your choice. Just I simply know some stores in New York where I can do information technology.
Then most of the time I buy leather online and considering of this, I have to convert square yards or meters to square anxiety.
Let's practise some math now. Fabrics come usually 45 in (115 cm) or threescore in (150cm) wide. So 1 thousand of 45 in fabric is equal 11.25 square feet. And 1 yard of 60 in material is equal 15 square anxiety. Keep these values in mind.
If your pattern requires 2 yards of 45 in fabric then yous volition need approximately 22.5 sq.ft. of leather. Likewise, let's ome back to pare imperfections, they have irregular edges and occasional flaws (information technology can be a hole in the skin, or but a thinner spot), then y'all will need to buy more square feet just in case. I think 25% more than the pattern requirements volition be enough, but remember, this is merely an judge. Then multiply that amount we got in footstep one by 1.25 (approximately) – we volition need around 28 sq.ft. of leather.
Look at the image below and the brusk video to meet how typical defects on leather look like. Some are large, some though are small and they need to be identified earlier you cut the pattern.
That amount is adept for big projects (like coats and jackets). Just for minor projects (like bags or vests) you will demand much less. For case, if your pattern suggests ¾ yard of 60 in fabric than you lot have to multiply ¾ by 15 (equal 11.25 sq.ft.) and add 25% for irregularities – your full will around 14 sq.ft.
Employ this prototype below to calculate the amount of skins for your project.
I did use myself that computing method above to estimate the number of skins. Usually, there are remnants after I finish my project but I can always make matching accessories or combine leather with cloth. I exercise not think I have e'er thrown away leather pieces large enough to sew together.
Where to buy leather?
This online store from Amazon has a slap-up variety of skins of different colors and weights, cheque it out.
And once you receive your skins don't continue them folded – unfold information technology immediately and roll it upwardly. I didn't know that and kept some nice leather folded for a twelvemonth and now it looks like this.
How to press leather seams
Information technology'due south non recommended to atomic number 26 leather. I was wondering why we tin't press leather with an fe, and I tried to fe some scrap leather piece – the result was not good: my pinkish leather got permanent yellow spots from the high temperature and curled and shrunk a piddling also.
But if yous absolutely demand to fe it – pad your ironing board with a towel, apply only a warm iron (for silk settings), a printing cloth and no steam.
Before cutting examine each skin advisedly, wait for defects and decide how you lot will work around them. Some defects are very visible (similar minor holes or stretched edges) but some are not so obvious (like thinner spots or missed sections on embossed leather). You lot tin can hold each skin up to the light to look for thinner spots for example.
I will go along this tutorial on how to sew together leather in my adjacent commodity (part ii) because this one is becoming too long already. In the next role, I volition touch other important issues, like choosing the pattern for leather, preparing the pattern for sewing and stitching techniques.
Did you notice this tutorial helpful? If so, salvage this pivot (see beneath) on your sewing lath then you lot tin can come to this tutorial after when yous are ready to sew something from leather, and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration!
Similar sewing tips? I accept other pop tutorials on my site that might exist interesting for you. Check them out beneath.
Source: https://www.ageberry.com/how-to-sew-leather/
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